Visiting Armenia with Philip Marsden’s The Crossing Place: A Journey Among the Armenians

Why you should go to Armenia

Armenia is one of the world’s oldest and most intriguing countries — a land of rugged mountains, ancient monasteries, and a culture shaped by endurance and deep-rooted faith. Tucked between Europe and Asia, it offers a unique and authentic travel experience far from the usual tourist trail.

A visit to Armenia means exploring dramatic landscapes, from the serene waters of Lake Sevan to the towering cliffs of the Debed Gorge. You'll discover some of the world’s earliest Christian architecture, including Geghard Monastery and Etchmiadzin Cathedral, often set in stunning surroundings.

Armenia’s capital, Yerevan, is a vibrant city blending Soviet history with lively cafés, art galleries, and open-air concerts. The Cafesjian Center for the Arts and the poignant Armenian Genocide Memorial provide insight into the nation’s complex past and creative spirit.

What truly sets Armenia apart, however, is its hospitality. Visitors are warmly welcomed, often with offers of home-cooked food and local wine. Whether you're hiking to a hilltop chapel or sharing a toast in a village home, you'll find a generosity and pride that leave a lasting impression.

Armenia is beautiful, soulful, and unforgettable — a place where history, nature, and human connection come together in powerful ways. Time-Pressed Travel have a tried-and-tested Armenia itinerary ready to be crafted to your interests.

The Crossing Place: A Journey Among the Armenians

This is the second time we've recommended a book by Philip Marsden — and with good reason: he truly is an outstanding travel writer.

Armenia is a country steeped in history, resilience and spiritual depth. To truly appreciate the cultural and emotional layers of this fascinating nation, reading The Crossing Place: A Journey Among the Armenians by Philip Marsden is not just recommended — it’s invaluable.

Marsden’s book is far more than a travelogue. It’s a thoughtful, searching journey into the soul of a people whose identity has been shaped by exile, endurance, and profound faith. First published in 1993, The Crossing Place recounts Marsden’s travels from Venice through Eastern Europe and the Caucasus, culminating in Armenia itself. Along the way, he meets Armenian communities both in the diaspora and at home, uncovering personal stories that bring historical events to life with poignant clarity.

One of the most compelling reasons to read this book before visiting Armenia is the way it provides essential historical context. Armenia is one of the world’s oldest nations, yet its story is not widely known outside the region. Marsden traces the sweep of Armenian history — from the adoption of Christianity in the fourth century to the traumatic events of the 20th century — with sensitivity and insight. His exploration of the Armenian Genocide, and the subsequent scattering of the Armenian people across the globe, adds vital background to a subject that still shapes national identity today.

But what sets The Crossing Place apart is not just its history, but the human element at its heart. Marsden brings the people he meets vividly to life — from monks in mountain monasteries to shopkeepers in the diaspora — capturing their humour, pride, hospitality and sense of loss. These personal encounters allow readers to understand Armenia not just through facts and dates, but through voices and experiences. As a result, by the time you arrive in Yerevan, Gyumri or a remote hillside village, you’ll feel as though you’ve already caught a glimpse of the country’s spirit.

The book also enhances your understanding of Armenia’s geography and cultural diversity. Marsden's route takes him through lesser-known corners of the Caucasus — including parts of Eastern Turkey, Georgia and Nagorno-Karabakh — offering a wider lens on the historical Armenian world. He describes landscapes with a lyrical precision that will heighten your appreciation when you see them in person: the highlands dusted with snow, the silence of ruined churches, and the stirring beauty of Lake Sevan. His prose is evocative but never overly sentimental; it strikes the right balance between reflection and observation.

Another strength of The Crossing Place is that it prepares you for Armenia’s contrasts and contradictions. You’ll be better equipped to understand the blend of ancient and modern, pride and pain, isolation and resilience that characterises so much of Armenian life. Whether you’re admiring khachkars (stone crosses) at Noratus, exploring Soviet-era relics in Yerevan, or listening to haunting liturgical chants in Geghard Monastery, Marsden’s book will have already helped you grasp the cultural threads that bind it all together.

Finally, Marsden himself is a compelling guide. His writing is elegant, honest and infused with curiosity. He doesn’t seek to explain everything, nor does he impose himself on the narrative. Instead, he allows the stories, places and people to speak — a quality that makes the book feel more like a companion than a lecture.

In short, The Crossing Place offers travellers to Armenia a rare combination: a beautifully written book that is both informative and deeply personal. It will enrich your journey with context, empathy and perspective — allowing you to see beyond the scenery and connect with the story of the Armenian people in a meaningful way.

If you’re planning a trip to Armenia, pack Marsden’s book alongside your guidebook. It won’t tell you where to eat or how to navigate public transport, but it will give you something far more valuable: a sense of connection.